Picture this: you're in a forest. A gentle stream flows beside you. Your picnic is spread out in the sun and… you're throwing mad shapes on your pottery wheel?
This guide is for anyone who wants to take their pottery hobby out and about, whether that's on holiday at the beach, or running a live demonstration at a craft fair.
While we're working towards perfecting our fully portable Pro pottery wheel (you can follow along on our product development blog), people often ask whether there's any way to pot on the go with the current Lite model. The answer is absolutely! You just need to know a few key points for picking the right equipment. We previously published a guide to making our old model portable (the Classic, now discontinued). This is the updated guide for our current model, the Lite pottery wheel.
⚡ Lite Pottery Wheel: power supply
Before you purchase anything, it's important to know what your small pottery wheel needs to run safely and properly. The Lite wheel requires a 12V, 10A, 120W DC (direct current) power source with a 5.5 x 2.1 mm barrel jack as its input. When you purchase your pottery wheel, an AC-to-DC power supply with a regional cable is included in the box. Because the Lite is more powerful than our Classic model, you'll need to pay close attention to power output if you want to connect a DC source directly, as the options we previously suggested for the Classic may no longer be suitable.
In short: as long as the correct DC input is provided, the Lite can be powered by anything you like.
Volts
The wheel does not have an internal voltage regulator, so it must receive exactly 12V DC. Anything other than 12V DC won't be compatible and may damage the electronics or prevent the wheel from working altogether.
Current
Sag
A label saying "12V 10A" is the maximum a supply is rated for, not what it holds under load. Cheaper supplies "sag", meaning the voltage quietly drops below 12V as you draw more current, so the wheel bogs down and won't hold speed under heavy load. If that's happening, it's often the source, not the wheel. A quality power supply holds a steady 12V right up to its rated current.
Cable size
The cable matters too. Thin wires have higher resistance, which eats voltage before it reaches the wheel, the same sag problem, just in the cable. The longer and thinner the cable, the more is lost. If you're using your own DC source, pick a cable with a thick enough conductor (lower AWG = thicker) and keep it as short as practical.
❌ USB-C power banks: not recommended for the Lite
As laid out in our previous article about making the Classic wheel portable, with the smaller, less powerful wheel you could use a power bank (like those for phones or laptops) with an appropriate adapter cable.
The standard USB-C power bank limits current to 3A when delivering 12V. Because of this, the Lite will try to draw more power than is available and the supply will cut out. This means there's no off-the-shelf USB-C solution, though you could potentially step down from a higher voltage.
🔌 Power stations
A portable power station may be a better option for use with the Lite wheel. Although they're bulkier than a power bank, there are more available that will meet the power needs of the wheel. We recommend looking for a power station that includes either an AC outlet (110V-240V, ideally rated for at least 120W) so you can use your wheel's standard AC power adapter directly, or a DC outlet you can connect the pottery wheel to directly.
Bear in mind that a power station runs on DC internally, so using the AC output loses some energy in that conversion and then loses a little more when your adapter converts it back down for the wheel. Going DC-to-DC avoids that, so if your station has a suitable DC port, check that it follows the current guidance above and make sure you have the correct cable; sometimes you'll need a 5.5x2.5mm to 5.5x2.1mm adapter.
(Stefano joke incoming: While you're squinting at that label, you might also stumble across a name for your next rock band🎸😝.)
High-quality power stations typically start around £230, but you may find refurbished models from top brands more affordably second-hand (for example, on eBay).
🚐 Powering from a vehicle
Some people may be planning to use their wheel on a road trip, or while living from a camper-van or RV. You could use a power cable that runs from your van's cigarette lighter straight into the wheel. Search for a 12V (ideally 10A) cigarette lighter to DC 5.5 x 2.1 mm male cable.
🔋Power tool battery
An ideal power source you may already have lying around the house is a power tool battery, such as from a drill. You'd also need an adapter to plug it into the Lite wheel. We sell an adapter for common drill battery brands (DeWalt, Ryobi, Makita, and Milwaukee) please get in touch if you'd like one. We have more on backorder, and they can be shipped directly from the USA too.
Ruby Fire adapter improves on the weak points of similar solutions, so power loss is minimal, the cable is easy to store, and everything is rightly sized.
✈️ A note on travel and safety
If you're planning to travel with any kind of portable power supply, it's important to understand the rules around battery safety and transportation, especially when flying or attending public events. The rules tightened considerably in 2025-2026, so don't assume what worked a couple of years ago still applies.
Most of these supplies use lithium-ion batteries, and for air travel the key number is the battery's capacity in watt-hours (Wh). As a general rule:
- Under 100Wh: typically allowed in carry-on without prior approval. This covers most power banks and many drill batteries.
- 100-160Wh: allowed only with the airline's approval, which usually means submitting a written request and documentation several days before you fly — not something you can sort out at the gate.
- Over 160Wh: not permitted on passenger aircraft at all. Many larger power stations (frequently exceeding 300Wh) fall here, so they're effectively grounded.
A few things that catch people out under the current rules:
- Carry-on only. Lithium batteries (even a small power bank) are banned from checked luggage at any capacity. They must travel in the cabin with you, kept accessible rather than buried in an overhead bag. Your wheel and its charger can still go in checked luggage; it's only the battery that's restricted.
- The Wh rating must be visible. Airlines now require the watt-hour rating to be printed on the device. If staff can't verify it from the battery or its documentation, they can refuse to let it on board; so don't bring anything with a worn-off or missing label.
- You may not be able to use it in the air. Many airlines now ban using power banks in flight and prohibit charging them from seat USB ports or power outlets, regardless of capacity. You can't yet join the mile high pottery club!
Either way, always confirm the capacity on your device and check the specific rules with your airline before you fly. Limits and approvals vary by carrier and change often.
A note on public events and venues
It's not just airlines. Large batteries are sometimes restricted from indoor use at public events or shared venues due to fire risk or insurance policies. If you're planning to throw at a market, fair, or workshop, check with the event organisers or venue managers in advance.
Battery recalls and product safety
Be aware that some major brands have issued recalls on power banks due to overheating or fire risks. For example, Anker has recalled multiple models in recent years. Before purchasing any portable power source, especially second-hand or refurbished units, check the manufacturer's website or your local product safety authority (such as gov.uk or cpsc.gov) to make sure the model hasn't been recalled.
To stay safe when using batteries:
- Only use reputable brands
- Don't leave batteries charging unattended
- Store batteries in a cool, dry place
- Avoid puncturing, crushing, or exposing batteries to extreme temperatures
